Deb Malewski
Contributing Writer

(Photo by Deb Malewski – Gary Colles, The Cheese Guy)

 

In his Charlotte kitchen, Gary Colles can often be found practicing a craft most people never witness firsthand: turning fresh milk into flavorful, artisan cheese. The process requires a few tools, plus time, patience, quality ingredients, and a genuine respect for tradition.

His journey into cheesemaking began in 1998 during a trip to England with his wife, Sylvia. While enjoying ploughman’s lunches in countryside pubs, Colles noticed something intriguing: the local cheeses were nothing like those back home, and each pub’s offering tasted distinctly different from the last. Curious and inspired, he returned home and began studying the art of cheesemaking through books and online research, laying the foundation for a passion that continues today.

He was influenced as a child by his step-grandfather who would slice off a piece of the “good cheese” that he kept under a glass dome in the refrigerator. Colles initially thought he would learn to make cheese just for himself and his family.  

He took a class at the cheese plant at Michigan State University and more classes in Massachusetts and Canada. He studied books from established cheesemakers, including Ricki Carroll of Massachusetts and Margaret Morris of Canada.

As he gained more expertise in cheesemaking, he was asked to teach it. He has taught cheesemaking in Michigan, North Carolina, Alabama, Vesterheim Norwegian American Museum and Folk Art School in Iowa, Woldumar Nature Center, Kellogg Community College, North House Folk School in Minnesota, lots of libraries, and numerous other settings, including private one-on-one classes. Locally, he taught cheesemaking for Charlotte evening classes at the high school and Saturday morning classes at Al!ve many times. He became known as “The Cheese Guy.”

“I teach the basics,” he said. “From that they can grab a recipe and make it themselves.” Only common kitchen equipment is required, he added, like a stainless-steel pot, a slotted spoon, a thermometer, cheesecloth, and a stove. 

Over the years, Colles has worked his way through an impressive range of cheeses, from familiar favorites like Cheddar and Swiss to Old World classics such as Stilton, Brie, Camembert, Gouda, and Manchego. His kitchen experiments have also produced paneer, ricotta, mozzarella, mascarpone, queso fresco, cream cheese, and even blue cheese; each batch a small nod to a place, a tradition, or a moment of curiosity that led him to try something new.

“A good cheddar is the hardest to make,” Colles said. “Sometimes it’s hard to find the right milk. It’s best to find a local farmer for good milk, although you can use milk that you buy at the grocery store. Timing is everything in cheesemaking, and recipes must be followed closely to be successful.” 

His favorite cheese to make is Mozzarella, because it is easy and fast. Yes, they still buy cheese from the grocery store, he admitted, including those plastic-wrapped slices which are great for grilled cheese sandwiches.

Panera Bread Company discovered the Cheese Guy several years ago and asked him to make a video about his unusual hobby. An entire film crew flew to his home in Charlotte to film him making cheese and it was hosted on their website.  

Colles has retired from teaching cheese making to groups but will do one-on-one classes. You can contact him at gcolles@gmail.com.